Persona Non Grata

(English following) 昨日波待ち中に気付いたが、この６月でサーフィンはじめて１０年が経った。 ボードは壊したりあげたりして今５本目。危ない目には幸いあまり遭わずやってこれた。もちろんボードや岩で切ったり波にもみくちゃにされて溺れかけたことは沢山あるが、それこそ色んな波を知るってそういうことも含めてだったなと思う。Cliffs(Oahu)やSarangan(Bali)での空を飛んでるような感覚、Ixtapa(Mexico)や東浪見(千葉)の嵐の後の虹の下での貸切マシンブレーク、Bull Bay(Jamaica)でガッチリ予想が当たった時の旅の達成感や、Blacks(San Diego)で大当りして大混雑の中競り合ってセットにピークから乗ってメイクできた時。自分しか知らないけど、これだけは譲れないって景色、思い出がたくさんある。 自然、仲間に感謝。 生涯、サーフィン。 When I was waiting for swells yesterday, I realized that I surf for ten year in my life. My current board is fifth. Others were crushed, donated to Jamaican children and so on. I could continued to surf without critical injuring for now. No doubt to cut face and foot, being drowned wiping out over 10 feet ones. But they were just to know variety of waves. Flying surfing in Cliffs(Oahu) and Sarangan(Bali), machine breaks after storm in Ixtapa(Mexico) and Torami(Chiba), delight of trip that expecting condition has realized in Bull Bay(Jamaica), won the peak in spite of crowdedn...

Created Japanese Mix on Sound Clowd. It's free streaming and check out. 日本語レゲエmixを作りました。 ストリーミングで聴けます。 Japanese-reggae-mix-01-revised-version

Surfing, climbing, camping, reggae dance,,, my curious diverges widely in outdoor so I will not specify any topic for this column. At first, let me consider the meaning of Outdoor. It indicates activities out of door, that is outside of house or any other structure in general. However I regard it as "no door", I mean the world without door or wall. Camping is eating and sleeping outside , releasing music from studio to outside is some festival or dance. They are came out from right place, or probably came out to right place. Technically speaking, the challenge to shift all activity that is done inside of wall and roof for instance office work, some kind of consumption, reading, learning and so on to no door world. As we know, actually no door in wild life. All doors and walls in the world have been created in order to fulfil needs and desires of human.  And some activity may be to be done inside. But as we get wealth, we should re-think which is require wall truly. Is ...

The music match rainy day is good. Music was born in sadness and loneliness. Music is also happy, but contented days do not need to fill because those are already enough. The more we obtain, the less necessity of sound and words. Moreover music tell us unconscious lack of life. If we think our life is enough, they teach us what is the true sufficiency. In peaceful days, there is crevice. And the crevice is often unknown ourselves which came from ambition. That is the reason why we should love changes on our mind. Music helps us in such cases.

I have had strong sense of responsibility for speaking own opinions even while I do not write any article. I do not feel it is obligation but we have a kind of mission even if we are all alone. On the other hand, happiness is always in individual heart. Some says it is among people. Definitely, happiness often is born with people. But each feel that severally, differently. Happiness is relative. Sadness is as so. In addition, most of ideas come from conversation with ourselves. Telling and make understand is different. I am talking about former. It is much more important that insisting and showing by our own way even if we are recognized incorrectly as a result. The experience give us ideas. The story give us a kind of happiness sometimes called lonely. In Searching of break with amigo I was coming and going time after time. There is nothing I've never seen gradually. Most of things I can see are already known and usual. Am I getting old as I am doing. It is true t...

Some says it is good that who behave as curious as I do speak about social. Curious as I do... he probably mean I'm strange, extraordinary and unapproachable. But it was not so big issue for me. I said I dislike word. Technically speaking, I feared word. And I'm still doing. I left here because of fear. But at the same time, I still have desire for insisting fortunately. I used to feel contradiction so many times that I ain't worried about that. So I'm back. I've just had some opinion. The time has come calmly. So calmly. In the beginning was the word. The fear makes me away from the word. And many idea was near by the word. However, I don't need to force to create words. That just makes them dirty. I borrowed them originally, I still remember. The words are holy. We must use them with great care. Anyway, the exotic language is reasonable. That hide and show properly for me. I hope I can use Espanol as wel...

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