Persona Non Grata

１ヶ月以上移動しながら滞在したメキシコを発ち、L.Aに帰った来た。 とはいえカリフォルニアは5年ぶりなのだが、「帰った来た」と言うのはやはり一番来ている海外の場所だし 初めて一人で海外で生活した場所でもあり 自分のひとつのルーツとの街だからだ。 メキシコでは無事、全ての目標を達成した。 ここから先は実はあまりプランが無い。 正直、とりあえずL.Aに来たというのが本心。 メキシコでは、 サーフィンのメッカ、プエルト・エスコンディドという明確な目的地があった。 テキーラ原産地を巡るという目標があった。 カリブでSlightly Stoopidはじめサーフロックとレゲエに埋もれるという目的があった。 サーフィンという大義名分の下ではあるが 今は具体的な目的地や目標を持たずカリフォルニアで旅を続けている。 予定が可変な以上、ハブ空港がある都市＝L.Aを仮の拠点として柔軟なプランに備えた。 またL.Aは自身の心のルーツでもあり 人生の節目となる旅で、昔の旅路を辿りたかった。 そしてサーフポイントも多く土地勘もある。 と、合理的な判断の下ではあったが、 懐かしくはあるものの その為だけにL.Aに来たわけではないし 正直ここにはもう見たい場所も欲しいものも無い。 やはり好きな土地だし落ち着くが、発見は無い。 心の故郷とやらに帰ってきたのか？ じゃあこれはもう旅では無いのか？ 余った時間をノスタルジーに思い出に浸りながら過ごしているだけ？ 行く場所が無くなったなら帰国すればよいのでは？ なぜ旅しているのかよく分からなくなった。 軽い気持ちで考えていた「再訪」に、自らの老いを気付かされた気がした。 もちろん新しい土地に行くことだけが旅では無い。 広く言えば、複数の拠点を移動しながら生きて行くことも旅だ。 それに慣れ親しんだ土地であっても小さな発見は常にあり、 ある意味自分の行動によって経験は得られる。 だがやはり常に感動するような発見を、 知らない土地での緊張感、期待を織り交ぜて進んでいく旅こそが、 より価値ある旅だと思った。 半ば強迫観念に近いが、何か新しい起爆剤のような目的地が欲しい…。 ...

※写真はカリサリーヨ・ポイント 　 プエルト・エスコンディードのサーフポイントマップを日本語で作りました。 https://goo.gl/maps/WwYgvMRZVDk 言わずと知れたサーフィンのメッカ、メキシコはプエルト・エスコンディード（オアハカ州）へトリップしてきた。 プエルト・エスコンディードは超有名なデスティネーションにも関わらず日本語の情報がとても少なく、今回は全て英語とスペイン語で情報収集をした。そして半分は現地で集めた情報。人によってポイントの呼び方が異なったりするし、どれがローカルにとってシークレットポイントなのか分からない為、今回は英語/スペイン語では書かないでおく。 また、10年前に行った バハ・カリフォルニアへのトリップの記事 を読んだ方から未だにコンタクトを頂く事がある。 やはりメキシコが好きだし、もっと日本人のサーファーにも行って欲しいので今後の為にこれを残そうと思った。 バハもとても良かったし、メキシコ以外でも、ジャマイカも西オーストラリアもハワイもバリでもいい波に乗ってきたと思う。 ただ今回の旅はそれも上回るいい波に毎日乗れたと思うのでやはりさすがメッカというだけある。 そして予想以上にサーフィンの幅が広い。つまりプロのビッグウェーバーが世界中から集まる場所でありながら、ビギナーでもとてもサーフィンを始めやすい。実際ポイントによってはロングボードのスクール生がわんさかいて、ビギナー優先だったりする。 少なくともレギュラーウェーブ（筆者はグーフィースタンス）では今回で人生最高の波に乗れたと思っているので、改めてこれまで行った海外サーフトリップをポイント化してみた。 ある程度客観的に評価したらやはりバリは日本人にとっていいですね。笑 ※アクセスは日本在住の場合 ※混雑はポイントでのサーファー数が少ないほど高い ※気候は気温が高いほど点数が高い/ウェットスーツが必要な場所は3点以下とした ※物価は日本と比較して低いほど点数が高い 勿論どんな旅をしたいか、どんな波が好きか、サーフィン経験、予算、言語スキルによっても何を大事にするかは変わってくるが、自分としてはサーフトリップとして今回のPuerto Escondidoの旅が一番楽しかった。（サーフィン歴11年） その代わりこれまでの旅で...

(English following) 昨日波待ち中に気付いたが、この６月でサーフィンはじめて１０年が経った。 ボードは壊したりあげたりして今５本目。危ない目には幸いあまり遭わずやってこれた。もちろんボードや岩で切ったり波にもみくちゃにされて溺れかけたことは沢山あるが、それこそ色んな波を知るってそういうことも含めてだったなと思う。Cliffs(Oahu)やSarangan(Bali)での空を飛んでるような感覚、Ixtapa(Mexico)や東浪見(千葉)の嵐の後の虹の下での貸切マシンブレーク、Bull Bay(Jamaica)でガッチリ予想が当たった時の旅の達成感や、Blacks(San Diego)で大当りして大混雑の中競り合ってセットにピークから乗ってメイクできた時。自分しか知らないけど、これだけは譲れないって景色、思い出がたくさんある。 自然、仲間に感謝。 生涯、サーフィン。 When I was waiting for swells yesterday, I realized that I surf for ten year in my life. My current board is fifth. Others were crushed, donated to Jamaican children and so on. I could continued to surf without critical injuring for now. No doubt to cut face and foot, being drowned wiping out over 10 feet ones. But they were just to know variety of waves. Flying surfing in Cliffs(Oahu) and Sarangan(Bali), machine breaks after storm in Ixtapa(Mexico) and Torami(Chiba), delight of trip that expecting condition has realized in Bull Bay(Jamaica), won the peak in spite of crowdedn...

Created Japanese Mix on Sound Clowd. It's free streaming and check out. 日本語レゲエmixを作りました。 ストリーミングで聴けます。 Japanese-reggae-mix-01-revised-version

Surfing, climbing, camping, reggae dance,,, my curious diverges widely in outdoor so I will not specify any topic for this column. At first, let me consider the meaning of Outdoor. It indicates activities out of door, that is outside of house or any other structure in general. However I regard it as "no door", I mean the world without door or wall. Camping is eating and sleeping outside , releasing music from studio to outside is some festival or dance. They are came out from right place, or probably came out to right place. Technically speaking, the challenge to shift all activity that is done inside of wall and roof for instance office work, some kind of consumption, reading, learning and so on to no door world. As we know, actually no door in wild life. All doors and walls in the world have been created in order to fulfil needs and desires of human.  And some activity may be to be done inside. But as we get wealth, we should re-think which is require wall truly. Is ...

The music match rainy day is good. Music was born in sadness and loneliness. Music is also happy, but contented days do not need to fill because those are already enough. The more we obtain, the less necessity of sound and words. Moreover music tell us unconscious lack of life. If we think our life is enough, they teach us what is the true sufficiency. In peaceful days, there is crevice. And the crevice is often unknown ourselves which came from ambition. That is the reason why we should love changes on our mind. Music helps us in such cases.

I have had strong sense of responsibility for speaking own opinions even while I do not write any article. I do not feel it is obligation but we have a kind of mission even if we are all alone. On the other hand, happiness is always in individual heart. Some says it is among people. Definitely, happiness often is born with people. But each feel that severally, differently. Happiness is relative. Sadness is as so. In addition, most of ideas come from conversation with ourselves. Telling and make understand is different. I am talking about former. It is much more important that insisting and showing by our own way even if we are recognized incorrectly as a result. The experience give us ideas. The story give us a kind of happiness sometimes called lonely. In Searching of break with amigo I was coming and going time after time. There is nothing I've never seen gradually. Most of things I can see are already known and usual. Am I getting old as I am doing. It is true t...

Some says it is good that who behave as curious as I do speak about social. Curious as I do... he probably mean I'm strange, extraordinary and unapproachable. But it was not so big issue for me. I said I dislike word. Technically speaking, I feared word. And I'm still doing. I left here because of fear. But at the same time, I still have desire for insisting fortunately. I used to feel contradiction so many times that I ain't worried about that. So I'm back. I've just had some opinion. The time has come calmly. So calmly. In the beginning was the word. The fear makes me away from the word. And many idea was near by the word. However, I don't need to force to create words. That just makes them dirty. I borrowed them originally, I still remember. The words are holy. We must use them with great care. Anyway, the exotic language is reasonable. That hide and show properly for me. I hope I can use Espanol as wel...

******************************************************************************************* Subnoize / Kottonmouth Kings 6th Sense / Common Tell Me Why / Conya Doss Dying To Live / Edger Winter Church For Thugs / The Game Life RMX / G Whizz In Jamaica / Elephant Man Party Up In Here /  Elephant Man How We Do It / Elephant Man Kill Boy / Dj Kenny Swing / Elephant Man Good Up / Tifa Dancehall Again /  Assassin Stay Far /  Elephant Man How Me Function /  Bugle Day Mi Born / Serani My Star / Serani Ride All Night /  Dexter Daps Again & Again /  Tony Matterhorn Hold On / Sean Paul Danza Kuduro / Don Omer Jump /  Rupee Sha Na Na / Minmi Kya Bamba Party /  Dr Evil Higher / Mr. Vegas This Life /  Future Fambo We Found Love / Rhianna Levels /  Avicii Good Feeling /  Flo Rida Positive Vibes /  Kottonmouth Kings ***********************************************************...

*Please read in the  original article , if you can. Or sometimes you cannot see my links. (for friends in Facebook)                                       From my private time Life is paradox. But is it real? Is the contradiction really discord, or just another form of concord in a language we've not yet discovered, language we've not yet learnt, language we've been deprived of. As if be a stranger in where nobody knows me. Sorry, better than that.  Remember the days as child soon after we acquire language. We should have been able to insist just a little bit. Don't regard communication as such easy works.  For example, when I talk that I love Chili Peppers, some people say "yeah, that guitar play is the finest!! Do you like the 4th track of the 2nd album?" I'm afraid I can't play the guitar even read any cords. I've not...

*Please read in  original article , if you can. Or sometimes you cannot see my links. (for friends in Facebook)  I have been just a member of an IT firm from this April. But now off the job training so study everyday.  This is my memo. Can you understand? Anyway, every day I go the training office at Kasumigaseki, the center of Japan. Today, let me introduce big learnings I got this several months. 1. Do not be deceived by words  We communicate each other with words. But we often miscommunicate with our words, especially familiar words. Attractive words often deceive us. The most important thing is not surface words but just truth below the surface. Off course, words are convenient exclusively. But, situation that doesn't  require any words is excellent moment, isn't it? Doubt pretty words. Who knows most, speak least. Still waters run deep. 2. Give it away  Big learning of mine during this 2 years is...

*Please read in  original article , if you can. Or sometimes you cannot see my links. (for friends in Facebook)  When I read and write down in English like this, I disappoint the power of word. The work is to analysis fundamental factors of words and sentences and make them translate in another language again. So I can encounter "something before words". Then I realize less power of words and the importance of belief that will appear as words.  Just rapper and poet's language is just word. But musician's language is music. Painter's language is their arts. Cook's language is cuisines. Architect's language is their architectures. Our works are all our language and also insistence.  Our language is not just word but all of that, act, expressions, attitudes, belief and so on. Don't believe in words too much. Don't talk and only words. Insist by all of your actions. Express by throughout your life.

A story I heard before. In a tropical island, one man lived. He was a fisherman. He had some friends. He had lived by fishing just he needs. He fished when he want to do every day, slept when he want to do every day, played with his friends when he want to do every day, sometimes traveled when he want to do. He was satisfied enough. He was free. One day, another man who was worked in city as a management consultant came the island. The business man told the fisherman. "Analysis where and when you can fish the most. When the haul increase, recruit other fishermen and be manager. Then get bigger and superior ships. Try to export fishes to foreign countries. And you can be one of the richest man in this island." The fisherman asked. "So what can I realize?" The business man responded. "You will be able to play however and whenever you want to do so everyday, sometimes travel when you want to do. You will re...

                                Like the world turning around, the environment around us changes ever. So if we don't change, we have to go to another place sometimes. We often realize something after that has already occurred like "I wish I could have done that..." But everyone can grow up and acquire like that. Dear someone who gave me something unforgettable, I will remember you. I can hear your all words ever since, I will remember you. I have always so many things which I want to talk to you and ask you, but always postpone them until "next time". Therefore I wish to value each moments and believe you always live happily somewhere. I wish I could meet you again someday. Dear everyone who gave me something unforgettable, I will remember you. I can hear your all words ever since, I will remember you. I learn to live my life right. We are not so alone that I could come here and s...

One cat was there. So conceited cat. He often followed tigers who are much stronger and bigger than himself over familiarly. The tigers are so kind that let the cat do as he wanted but they all knew that he was still immature. The tigers were all gentle. The cat had yearned the tigers so much. Anyway, other cats don't approach for fear of tigers. By this thing and that, the cat was admitted to be superior in every way by others. He had already thought that he want to be real tiger. Off course, it's impossible. But he was serious. And if he is regarded as serious, he must be regarded as mad. So he didn't reveal his real intension to his friends for fear of that. Other cats quite respected him. So he pushed his luck and had approached tigers closer. "I've just gone hunting with Mr. tigers today!" "I'll go to their home tomorrow!" He is elated completely. But other cat also respect him more and more. Because they al...

*Please read in  original article , if you can. Or sometimes you cannot see my links. (for friends in Facebook) I made just 6 questions about the issue some days ago . If you don't mind, please answer these. You can submit following form or the original page . <p><p><p><p><p><p><p><p>Loading...</p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p>

                                                                                                       The chameleon was traveling. He had already been to many places and changed his body many colors. Once so shiny and blight. Once dirty like bog and unrecognizable any color. Short time ago, he had wanted something new and gone toward a blight tower. When he had reached the tower, beautiful chameleons were dancing there. So beautiful dance. There was a great place like dreamland for him. When he came to, he found himself became a color as the tower. He recognized he was dyed good looking. However, as time went on he had gotten to felt the color was not good gradually. As usual...

*Please read in  original article , if you can. Or sometimes you cannot see my links. (for friends in Facebook)  I graduate the university today. At same time, I finish 22 years of my life as student. It mean that I am gonna be more independent truly. I am gonna make money by myself to live. Even to make my own dream come true. 4 years ago...  I entered into a university with good motivations. At that time, I was so dominant, having too much sympathy for myself and selfish, I mean mere stupid guy. (but still selfish lol) I was so interested such divers individuals at campus. I had so much fun encountering other people despite my shyness originally. Then I realized one dream after another...  At first, I began surfing. It was encounter with Perfect Beach, our surf team. I had wanted to start surfing but didn't know how to do by alone. Then I came across such a team at campus. We went to sea and slept at the our club house in Chiba ocean ...

*Please read in  original article , if you can. Or sometimes you cannot see my links. (for friends in Facebook) I dare want to ask you all how to arrange so many informations for now.  I have read daily newspaper (Nikkei) everyday to grasp news about from general to little special fields. Because superior journalists always choice articles which I need so well that I don't spend too much times to read them.  But once I choice articles I read by myself from huge informations everyday, I may spend too much time of a day for collecting informations. My journalists have been filters of news ever since. When the influences of mass medias we used ever since such TVs and newspapers get fainter(it will be so surely...), on the other hands the social medias such blogs, essays you found accidentally, news by words of mouth from our friends on Facebook, twitter and other ways expand their influences, we have to arrange almost informations in on our own responsibilities. T...